DOUBLES

You need

1. An opening hand (10+ HCPs at 1 level, 12+ HCPs at 2 level). Do not include a Queen or Jack in the openers suit in the point count 
2. shortage in the openers suit
3. 3 or 4 cards in all other suits

NOTE: if opponents opened a major, do not count an unsupported Q or J in openers suit.

This is always for takeout, even to the 5 level.  Except for over 4S (by partnership agreement) DBL can be used for penalties and 4NT is takeout.

No need to have 3 or 4 cards in all other suits e.g. can be a:

1. Single suited hand too strong for a simple overcall

• 16+ points
• 5+ cards (major is best but can bid with a minor)
• no shortage in opponents suit needed

If partner answers in the wrong suit, change it. It is a very strong overcall.

2. A balanced hand too strong for a 1NT overcall (18 HCPs)

If no 5 card suit, and not 18+ points to bid 2NT, bid 1NT with a stopper

NOTE: do not count an unsupported Queen or Jack in the openers suit

This is the responder double:

If partner has bid 1C/1D, and an opponent overcalls with a suit bid (e.g. 1H) cannot overcall (1S) with 4 cards in the suit, use (X). Promises 6+ points at 1 level and 8+ (or 10+) at 2 level (discuss with partner).

If partner bids 1C and opponent bids 1D, DBL means 4 hearts and 4 spades

If partner bids 1H and opponent bids 1S, a double means no support for partner and 4+/4+ in the minors and points.

This double also means that responder does not have a 5 card suit.

This tells partner that they have a strong hand:

1D -> 1S -> Pass -> 2S -> X

should only be bid with 16+ HCPs and asks the responder to bid their best suit.

Is a takeout double by responder after opponents have bid and raised a suit and partner has overcalled or doubled.

Requires 8-9 HCP at the 2 level or >9 HCP at the 3 level

Use if you do not have a bid.

This is used to check if they are serious about game or is just being competitive:

1H -> 1S -> 2H -> 2S 

3H means you (as opener) are just being competitive whereas X means that the opener is interested in game and asks if partner to bid 4H if they are at the top f their range otherwise bid 3H if a minimum. 

When partner's opening bid is Doubled, redouble with 10+ HCPs and no 5 card suit. It denies support if partner has opened a major. 

This is used by the person in the balancing seat when the contract is going to the opponents at the 1 or 2 level. Partner may not have had a bid but may have a good hand, so double with:

• shortness in opponents suit
• no length in an overcall suit
• 
  

This can be done with as little as 6+ HCPs at the 1 level by partnership agreement.

The reopening double is for takeout but partner may pass for penalties if holding the right hand (see rule of 9)

This is a DOUBLE of opponents artificial bid. It means that is my suit and I was going to bid that. e.g slam bidding, 2C stayman and transfers, 2D after a strong 2C opening.

In most cases artificial bids are taken out, so usually partner does not need to bid. However if partner has points and that suit they can then bid it. Or they can bid a suit of their own.

If you end up defending the double is then LEAD DIRECTING

This is used above a certain level (e.g 3) by partner agreement, or over a 1NT bid. 

Only use this when you know the declarer will be defeated.

NOTE: IF YOU HAVE AN AGREED SUIT THEN ANY DOUBLE IS FOR PENALTY

If both sides are bidding a suit and you have the majority of the points, and are going to defend, consider doubling. Be aware that hands with wild distribution may make.

RULE OF 9 - add the number of trumps in your hand plus the level of the trump bid plus the number of honors in trumps that you hold, if it equals 9 the DOUBLE.

If partner is doubling ie:

1D -> X -> 1H -> Pass -> 2D -> X -> 2H -> Pass -> Pass -> X -> Pass -> Pass

First double is takeout, second double is strength and third is for penalty.

If you know that they are sacrificing you should double. It is said that if none of your penalty doubles fail then you are not doubling enough!

NOTE: If partner has been doubled and RHO opponent has unexpectedly passed, you can REDOUBLE (XX) to allow the bidding to continue and partner to bid again.

In a competitive bidding situation you have reached game or higher and your RHO have bid over you should you pass, bid higher or double? Eg 6S or 5S

Work out how many defensive tricks* do you need to win? - eg 2 or 3

If you have the 2 tricks, double (partner will have 1), if not pass and let partner decide. 

If partner has has 2 tricks they should double, if they have one trick they should pass and if they have 0 tricks they should sacrifice as opponents will win

You must respond (rarely can you leave it - needs 6 cards in the bid suit - 3 sure trump tricks and at last one non-trump trick) so bid your best alternate suit. Always give preference to a 4 card major suit even if have a 5 card suit in a minor. Can add TP as you know that you have a fit.

• 0-8 HCP -  Bid LONGEST suit - preference to a major
• 9-11 HCP, 4+ card major -  Bid at one level up than necessary in LONGEST suit  
• 9-11 HCP, no 4 card major, stopper in opponents suit - Bid NT (1NT if at 8-10 HCP) but 2NT if at higher end (11-12 HCPs) 13+ HCP 3NT
• 12+ HCP -  Force to game. Could bid opponents suit as this is a ‘cue bid’. If 2 suits usually bid first one (can assign meaning to second one). Game forcing.
• PASS - last resort, see rule of 9

• 0-7 HCP -  Pass (only bid if >8HCPs) but consider using TPs if a fit!
• 8+TPs  - Show a fit if you have one or bid NT with a stopper
• 9-11 HCP -  Jump to show strength, invite to game
• 12+ HCP -  Force to game. Could bid opponents suit as this is a ‘cue bid’. Game forcing.

• Bid as they they have passed

When your partner has doubled a suit that you have values in, should you pass for penalties or bid? To figure this out:

If their contract level + your trump length + number of your trump honors => 9 then PASS otherwise (<9) you bid your best suit

NOTE: You can count the 10 of trumps but only with partnership agreement. Also you may want to adjust for vulnerability so if you are vulnerable you could use =>10.

 Yes if at all possible, bend the rules slightly - stretch to bid

• 0-4 TPs -  PASS
• 5+ TPs, 3 card suit -  support if opener has opened in a major
• 5+ HCPs if partner has bid a minor - bid major if you can or support  the minor
• 10+ HCPs, no fit - Bid XX - Redouble

• PASS unless have 16+ HCPs
• 16-18 TPs -  a rebid of a suit invites partner to game if they have the points
• 19-21 TPs -  the doubler should double jump, which may be to game or an invitational level which invite partner to rebid with anything except a useless hand
• 22+ TPs - Jump to game

• Less than 14+ TPs - PASS, your partner will rebid if has more than minimum hand (>7TPs).
• 14-15 TPs - if have a good 4 card fit, stretch to raise

If bids a suit but has not jumped - still has only 8 HCPs, so 

• 10-16 TPs - stretch to raise only if opener rebids otherwise PASS
• 16+ TPs and fit -  Bid game
• 16+ HCPs and no fit and stopper - 3NT

Shows a stopper and 8-10 HCPs

• Less than 14 HCPs - PASS
• 15-16 HCPs - Invite with 2NT
• 17+ HCP - 3NT

• 0-7 TPs -  Pass 
• 8+ TPs and 4 hearts/spades (if cue bid) or fit- Invite with 3H/S 
• 14-15 HCP  and 3 hearts/spades and a stopper -  invite with 2NT
• 12+ HCP -  Force to game. Could bid opponents suit as this is a ‘cue bid’. Game forcing.

Need a balanced strong hand (17+ HCPs) and it is usually for penalty

If you have a weak single suited hand (5+ cards in one suit) consider bidding, otherwise PASS

• Watch this video on YouTube from Tony Shaw  

• Watch this video on YouTube from Red Dirt Bridge

• Watch this video on YouTube from Red Dirt Bridge